Hey Lykkers! Are you ready to dive into the world of leatherworking and create your very own leather wallet?

It's an exciting project that not only results in a beautiful, functional item, but it also teaches you many leatherworking skills that can be applied to future projects. So, let's get started!

Gather Your Tools and Supplies

Before we begin crafting our wallet, it's important to gather all the necessary tools and materials. Here's a list of what you'll need:

• 3-4 oz weight vegetable tanned leather

• Wallet pattern (we have a few options for you!)

• Diamond chisel set

• Sewing awl

• Waxed thread

• Stitching pony (optional but useful)

• Stitching groover

• Leather-friendly oil (like jojoba oil)

• X-acto tool

• Ruler

• Rubber mallet

• Spray bottle

• Gum tragacanth (for burnishing)

• Edge slicker

• Leather cement

• Small clamps

• Fine grit sandpaper

These tools might seem like a lot at first glance, but don't worry! Once you have them, they can be used for many more leather projects down the road. Plus, making this wallet will introduce you to the basics of leatherworking, which will make other projects easier and more enjoyable.

Choose and Cut Your Pattern

Now that we have everything ready, it's time to choose your wallet pattern. There are three patterns available: one with straight pockets and two with slanted pockets. Select the one that best fits your style, and then carefully cut it out using an X-acto tool and ruler. Make sure to cut along the edges precisely, as a clean cut will help in the final outcome of your wallet.

Once your pattern is cut, lightly oil the grain side of the leather to keep it from drying out and to help with the burnishing process later.

Burnish the Short Edges

Before we move on to the folding process, we'll need to burnish the short edges of the leather. Burnishing helps smooth out the leather edges and gives them a more polished, professional look. Apply a bit of gum tragacanth to the edges, let it get tacky, and then use a slicker to smooth them out. Keep repeating this process until the edges darken and become smooth to the touch. This step is crucial for ensuring your wallet looks neat and refined.

Make the Side and Middle Folds

Next, it's time to create the folds that give your wallet its shape. Start by marking the fold lines on the flesh side (the fuzzy side) of the leather using a ruler. For the side folds, dampen the leather slightly and then fold it over, securing it with clamps until it dries. Be careful to position the folds accurately to ensure the wallet folds correctly.

Once the side folds are done, it's time to create the middle fold. Moisten the middle line and fold the leather carefully in half, ensuring all edges line up perfectly. Clamping the fold helps hold it in place as it dries.

Groove the Stitching Lines

With the folds in place, the next step is to groove the stitching lines. Using a stitching groover, mark the lines where you'll sew the pockets and the main body of the wallet. Take your time with this step, ensuring that the grooves are even and aligned. Grooving helps guide the stitching, making the process easier and more precise.

Glue the Pockets in Place

Now it's time to attach the inside pockets. Apply leather cement to the edges of the pocket pieces and carefully glue them in place along the corresponding areas of the wallet. Use clamps to hold everything in position while the glue dries. Be sure to avoid getting glue in places where you'll be punching holes, as this could make the stitching process harder later on.

Punch Sewing Holes

Once the pockets are glued, it's time to punch sewing holes. Using a diamond chisel set, punch through the glued pocket areas. Make sure to punch the holes evenly to ensure a neat and strong stitch. For the best results, lightly moisten the leather before punching, and work carefully to avoid any angled holes.

Punch Holes Through to the Outside

With the inside holes punched, we'll now need to punch holes through to the outside of the wallet. This is where precision is key. Place the wallet on a piece of cardboard, with the inside holes facing up. Use an awl to carefully punch through to the other side, making sure the holes line up perfectly. These holes will guide the stitching for the outer edges of the wallet.

Groove and Punch the Outside of the Wallet

Using the tiny holes you just created as a guide, groove the outside stitching lines, and then punch holes through the outside layer of leather. Take care to punch these holes neatly, as they will be visible on the finished wallet. It's also a good idea to use your awl to clean up any holes that might need a little extra precision.

Oil the Leather

Before stitching, it's important to oil the leather. Applying oil helps the leather stay soft and supple. Use a clean cloth to apply oil to the grain side of the leather, paying special attention to the stitching grooves. This will also help the thread glide through more smoothly during the stitching process.

Stitch the Wallet Together

Now comes the fun part—stitching! Thread your leather needles with waxed thread and begin sewing the pieces of your wallet together. If you've never saddle stitched before, don't worry! This method is very sturdy and creates a professional-looking stitch. For a detailed guide on saddle stitching, be sure to check out our full tutorial.

Finish the Edges

Once your wallet is stitched together, it's time to finish the edges. Use fine grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots, and then burnish the long edges using gum tragacanth and a slicker. The edges should now be smooth and glossy, completing the refined look of your wallet.

Final Oil and Enjoy!

The last step is to give your wallet a final coat of oil. This ensures that the leather stays conditioned and doesn't dry out over time. Once the oil has soaked in, let your wallet dry completely. You've now made your very own leather wallet!

Congratulations on completing this leatherworking project, Lykkers! we hope you're as pleased with the result as we are. Not only do you have a stylish and functional wallet, but you've also gained valuable skills that you can use for future projects. Enjoy your new wallet!